DATE
6/11/25
TIME
5:57 PM
LOCATION
Oakland, CA
Hunan May Be the Earliest Site of Rice Cultivation in the World
湖南可能是世界上最早的水稻种植地
1-0: 米粉
来美国之后,我一直想能每天早上吃到新鲜的米粉,当年早上3点有人起来现成做的、然后从工厂送到城里大大小小的米粉铺的那种,吃到嘴里的时候,应该刚出炉不到四五个小时。过了八点半九点,就卖完了。上面还有满满的浇头、不限量的各种酸菜、榨菜、雪里蕻、剁辣椒等等。有的米粉店会把这件事情做到极致,弄出十几种不同,但大部分还是以四到五种为主。米粉店嘛,还是得看浇头和煮米粉的功力,不是看这些配菜。不必要那么花里胡哨的,好吃就行。
除了米粉,还有糖油坨坨,注意:是坨坨,不是粑粑。也就是是像糖葫芦一样,一串的,外面酥脆,里面软糯,刚出炉,等15秒立刻吃。原料很简单,只是糯米坨坨搓成小团,放到温热的红糖油里慢慢炸,这个过程需要耐心,也看火候,他们都适用炭火,非常适合慢炸。煤气火即便是最低档的,也太热,加热速度太快,糯米坨坨里面还没软、外面就焦了。我说的是长郡中学、文庙坪附近那个,不知道为什么,小时候好吃的东西总是在初中或者高中附近。那附近还有一家炸炸炸,也不错。还有一家猪油拌粉的夜宵店子,据说猪油拌粉是他们家原创,调料也很简单,鸡精、酱油、猪油。正如《功夫熊猫 I》所说的那样,并没有秘密ingredient。
虽然我们不确定福岩洞人的年纪到底多大,但据说,有个叫玉蟾岩人的是用碳测年法提取有机物分析的,比铀这种无机物测的要准确,因为直接测了这个东西的年纪,不是推测这个东西的上方的什么东西的放射元素的可能衰变时间。碳还是比较稳定的,更加靠谱。这个玉蟾岩人的年纪就这么测的,因为发现了碳化稻米。
朋友们,稻米。稻米!这是公元前一万多年,就有人种米了?这么厉害?那要是有会种米,肯定还有对节气的了解,种米的工具,防虫的办法,对农业作物的了解等等等等。这会不会对一万年前来说,太先进了?这么早就有米,原来米粉是这样来的。
1-1: 米粉街
现在的米粉店也还有这样的,往往都是居民楼下没有名字的那一家,而不是所谓的米粉街、或者是曾经有名的那一些,早被游客挤爆、质量早不如之前。文和友都从一个小小的街边小龙虾大排档做到了有室内游乐场,炸臭豆腐的某娭毑都有了自己的博物馆,还开始有了打碟这种爱好。一切的变化都太快,我不知道米粉街,小时候真的没有这东西。定王台似乎还在,但是里面好像冷冷清清,我有点不记得我到底去年去了这个地方吗,还是在梦里。
一切关于长沙的记忆都逐渐模糊,但又逐渐更加清晰。学习关于记忆的章节的时候,说到记忆是主观的,这我当然知道,但记忆往往是于情感相关的才会被保留下来,这件事情,让我感到很震惊。也就是不管时间过了多久,如果没有情感波动,这件事你记不久。以前有人问我什么是narrative film,我得先解释什么是narrative。其实人的记忆和所有事情的发生,在我看来,是毫无规律和随机的,从单个事件的可预测性上来说,大的方向当然有规律,但微观来看,预测准确定极底。每天每时每刻的事情都没什么规律,拉很远看才有规律,往回看才有规律,但同时,这个规律,也只是对过去的总结,在随机里找规律,找出了一些规律。但你要预测未来,还是不行。这就是统计学,也是narrative。
我好像没有narrative,只有情感关联记忆,这中间的规律到底是什么,我想大概我去世的时候,才能强行总结出来。但总而言之,细节我记得越来越清楚,每次回去都觉得这里和之前不一样,那里又不一样。前几天我看到某2010年在解放西那边拍的照片,觉得只是连三年前,但其实都过了15年了。想想真可怕。
这15年我到底在做什么呢,我也不确定。好像做了很多,又好像什么都没做。我自己也不确定有什么好做的,有什么好记录的,但不记录会不会就这样消失了,即便记录了被保留下来的可能性也有限,那记录的意义是什么呢。我想,只是为了我自己吧。我想知道,这条路能走到哪里。人生本生就是创作,这只是一个使用手册。
1-2:玉蟾岩人
这个碳测年的方式我真的不想仔细查了,上一篇查铀测年看的我头都晕了。我已经不关心这些细节,但chatgpt说这个发现在业界几乎没有争议,基本靠谱。我不确定到底靠谱不靠谱,我只想知道,一万年前就有不是野稻、也是被称为早期驯化性水稻的米,虽然离今天的大米还有一定差距,但已经是农业了。一万年前就会种地,但到了三年饥荒,还是饿死人。看样子,开始得早也没用,耐不住打仗、政治斗争瞎造。
除开玉蟾岩,湖南道县的高庙头遗址,也出土了大概距今9000年了稻谷碳屑,说明那一片那时候都有农业了。而除开湖南,一万年前附近的重要遗址还有浙江浦江的上山遗址、有水田(!),江西万年的仙人洞遗址和大草坪遗址,出土了最早的陶器之一。这些都是比较先进的手工业、农业的行为了,对工具的使用和制作都很不错。这样想想,一万年后的我们,似乎也没进化那么多。
1-0: Rice Noodles
After I came to the U.S., I kept dreaming of having freshly made rice noodles every morning—the kind made at 3 a.m. in some small factory and delivered by dawn to every little shop in town. By the time it reached your bowl, it probably had only been out of the steamer for four or five hours. By 8:30 or 9:00 a.m., it’d usually be sold out. The noodles would come topped with generous portions of braised meats, and the tables would be lined with endless jars of pickled mustard greens, sour vegetables, chopped chilies, and snow cabbage. Some shops went all out with ten-plus toppings, but most stuck to four or five basics. The essence of a good rice noodle shop was never in the side dishes—it was in the broth and the way the noodles were cooked. It didn’t have to be flashy—just good.
Besides rice noodles, there was tang you tuo tuo—sugar-oil dough balls. Not ba ba, mind you, but tuo tuo: chewy, bite-sized balls skewered like candied hawthorn, crisp on the outside, soft and glutinous inside. You had to eat them 15 seconds after they came out of the fryer. The ingredients were simple: glutinous rice dough rolled into balls, deep-fried slowly in warm brown sugar oil. It required patience and precision—always over charcoal, never gas. Even the lowest flame from a gas stove is too strong—it cooks the outside before the inside softens. I’m talking about the stall near Changjun Middle School and Wenmiaoping. For some reason, the best snacks always seem to cluster around middle or high schools. There was also a fried-everything shop nearby. And a late-night place that served rice noodles with pork lard—legend has it they invented the combo. The seasoning was simple: chicken bouillon, soy sauce, lard. Just like Kung Fu Panda said, there is no secret ingredient.
We may not know exactly how old the Fuyan Cave people are, but reportedly, the so-called Yuchanyan person was dated using radiocarbon analysis of organic remains, which is generally more accurate than uranium-based dating of inorganic matter—because it dates the thing itself, not the mineral crust that happened to settle on it. Carbon is more stable, more honest. That’s how we know how old the Yuchanyan person is: they left behind carbonized rice grains.
Friends—rice. Rice! Over 10,000 years ago, someone was already growing it? That’s wild. If you can grow rice, then surely you know about planting seasons, tools, pests, crop cycles. Isn’t that… a bit advanced for 10,000 years ago? But if rice existed that early, then maybe—just maybe—this is how rice noodles began.
1-1: Rice Noodle Streets
There are still shops like that now, usually tucked downstairs in old residential buildings with no sign, definitely not on those so-called “Rice Noodle Streets” or tourist traps. Those famous places are overrun with influencers and nowhere near as good as they used to be. Wenheyou started as a tiny crayfish-and-beer street stall, now it has indoor amusement parks. The lady frying stinky tofu has a museum. She even DJs now. Everything changes too fast. I don’t think “rice noodle streets” even existed when I was a kid. Dingwangtai still stands, I think—but the last time I went, it was eerily quiet. Or maybe I didn’t actually go—maybe I just dreamed it.
All my memories of Changsha are fading and sharpening at the same time. When I studied memory, I learned it’s not just subjective—emotional significance determines what gets stored. That shook me. You only remember what hurt or moved you. Once, someone asked me what a narrative film is. I had to start by explaining what a narrative is. Personally, I don’t think life unfolds with any kind of logic. Events feel random. Sure, zoomed out, you can see patterns. But up close, it’s chaos. You only see patterns looking back. Even then, it’s just pattern recognition inside randomness. That’s statistics. That’s narrative.
I don’t think I have a narrative. I have emotionally-tagged memory fragments. Maybe one day, when I die, I’ll force them into a story. But for now, all I know is that the details keep getting clearer. Every time I go back, things are different. A few days ago, I saw a photo from 2010 taken on Jiefangxi Road. It felt like three years ago—but it’s been fifteen. Terrifying.
What did I do in those fifteen years? I’m not sure. It feels like I did a lot. Or maybe nothing. I don’t even know if there’s anything worth doing, or recording. But if I don’t record it, will it all disappear? Even if I do record it, what’s the chance it survives? So what’s the point? Maybe just this: for myself. I want to know how far this road can go. Life is a creative act. This is just the manual.
1-2: Yuchanyan Person
I don’t want to look up radiocarbon dating anymore. The last post about uranium dating gave me a headache. I honestly don’t care about the technical details. ChatGPT says this Yuchanyan dating is widely accepted in the field, basically reliable. I don’t know if that’s true. I just want to understand how there could already be rice—early-stage domesticated rice, not wild rice—10,000 years ago. Sure, it wasn’t jasmine or sushi-grade stuff, but still, it was agriculture. Humans were already farming 10,000 years ago—and yet during the Great Famine, people still starved. Turns out, starting early means nothing when war and politics come and ruin it all.
Aside from Yuchanyan, there’s the Gaomiaotou site in Daoxian, also in Hunan, where carbonized rice from around 9,000 years ago was found—so the whole region likely had agriculture. And beyond Hunan, there’s the Shangshan site in Zhejiang—yes, with actual paddy fields (!!). In Jiangxi’s Wannian County, the Xianrendong and Dacaopei sites produced some of the world’s oldest pottery. These are all signs of highly advanced prehistoric craft and farming. Makes you wonder: have we really evolved that much in 10,000 years?